The Bespoke Process

Your piece might begin with an idea, a reference, a feeling, or a stone you can’t stop thinking about. We’ll explore what it could become, working through the smallest details of a setting and solving the technical challenges along the way. Together, we’ll create something entirely personal to the person who will wear it.

My process is deliberate, and is built around a small number of projects at a time, so that each one gets the attention it deserves.

Your stone is the foundation of the design and often the largest part of the overall cost, so we start with your budget and work from there. I’ll consider your vision and aesthetic preferences to help guide choices that stay within it. If what you’re hoping to create can’t realistically be achieved within your investment range, I’ll let you know early on, with honesty and respect for your time.

As a very rough guide, these figures assume a middle-of-the-scale color, somewhere between J and P. Many of my clients choose stones in this range, which is why I reference pricing from it. A finished engagement ring at $15,000 typically allows for a diamond of around 1 to 1.25 ct, at $20,000 around 1.5 to 2 ct, and at $25,000 around 2 to 2.5 ct. Rings with stones of 3 ct and above generally begin around $35,000. Color has the biggest effect: a very white stone may need to be smaller to stay within a budget, while a warmer color can often take you up in carat for the same price.

Finding the right stone is one of my favorite parts of the bespoke process. I work closely with trusted suppliers to source beautiful antique and modern natural diamonds, as well as fine colored gemstones, chosen specifically for your piece.

Based on your preferences and budget, I’ll bring together a curated selection, often around three strong candidates, for us to explore. If a stone isn't chosen during the first viewing together, we can refine the search based on your feedback. If a stone isn’t chosen after the second presentation, additional sourcing rounds are available at $500.

There are times, especially with rare or highly specific criteria, that only one strong option may present itself. And if you’re seeking a very specific combination of color, cut, clarity, carat, and ratio, it can require patience as we wait for the right match to appear. When it does, decisiveness is often important, as many stones are one-of-a-kind and tend to move quickly.

When I present stone options, each one is shown in the context of the proposed design, along with a complete project estimate. If you’re local to New York City, you can visit my studio to see your selection in person. If you’re located elsewhere, I provide detailed photos and videos so you can get a feel for each stone and feel confident in your choice.

Once you’ve chosen a stone, we’ll talk through your ideas and choose an overall design direction to develop. I’ll build that design around the exact proportions of your chosen stone, and we’ll explore and refine the details together.

We’ll talk through how high or low you’d like your stone to sit, whether you prefer a bezel or prongs, and whether you want your ring to stack with a straight wedding band or sit alongside a curved one; you get to consider the smallest details of your piece.

You’ll see the design come together through CAD renderings, and I’m happy to show you variations of the concept. Four prongs versus six, a different shank width, more or less metal around the stone; making adjustments along the way is an expected part of the process. If you’d like to explore an entirely different design direction once significant work has been done, that begins a new design phase at $750.

CAD shows your ring at a much larger scale than it will be in real life, so I’ll help you understand how those details will translate to the finished piece. If helpful, we can create a 3D printed prototype so you can try on the design and get a feel for scale and fit before it moves into production. 

Your ring is cast, then assembled, finished, and set entirely by hand. I work closely with skilled craftspeople at every stage, including my master stone setter, who has more than thirty years of experience working with Van Cleef, Tiffany, and other high jewelry houses. His skill and care are a big part of what brings our vision to life.

Every project moves at its own pace in the sourcing and design stages. Once the stone is selected and the design is finalized, production typically takes around six weeks, depending on complexity. If you’re working toward a specific date, let me know at the start so we can do our best to plan around it.

To begin, I require an initial deposit of $1,000. This secures your place in my custom queue and allows me to begin dedicating time and resources to your project. The deposit is applied toward your final piece, but is non-refundable due to the time, access, and sourcing involved at this stage.

Once a stone is selected, a second deposit is required to secure it. This is typically 50% of the estimated project total, with your initial $1,000 applied toward that amount. Stone deposits must be made via bank transfer (ACH or wire).

When the piece is finished, the final balance is collected, and I'm happy to arrange a professional appraisal if you plan to insure your piece. From there, it is carefully packaged and shipped fully insured, or arranged for pickup in NYC.